Washing instructions (info article)

All Mette Møller garment has a washing label and must be cleaned as directed. A garment last longer if you treat it with care.
 
DRY CLEANING



If a garment is recommended to be cleaned, it does not necessarily mean that the material can not withstand water.

An example: if you wash a coat in the machine, materials and other details can twist and get out of shape. This can be remedied by a proper handling of iron, but that can be a difficult job depending on how experienced you are with the iron.

Another thing is that the forage, which is a lot thinner and more fragile than the main material, should not be subjected to abrasion by rubbing two against each other in the drum.

Some items do not need to be cleaned very often either, so once in a while should be manageable.



WASH



Dark colors washed separately.

The garments must not soak or remain in the machine after washing. Some colors might "bleed" (flow into each other).

Items with taped seams should not be tumble-dried or cleaned.

If the garment is marked with the delicates, but you get some stains or odors that needs a harder wash, then wash the stain first with liquid dish soap (do not rub, but allow the detergent to soak for a little while) and rinse the area gently with very hot water. Then wash the garment as instructed.



IRONING



There is no claim, if a garment needs ironing after washing. It is clearly recommended, it means that the garment will look best if you iron it after washing.

Use the steam iron and always on the inside out to avoid "impact" (ie, the seam on the wrong side makes a stripe mark on the right side of the fabric)

Some materials shrink naturally after cleaning, but comes back to its original shape when the garment is ironed.

Wool can easily withstand ironing. The wool is not of poor quality if this is necessary after washing.

Wool is easy to shape by the use of steam iron. If the garment is a bit narrow, stretching and ironing clothes in the direction you want it can make it bigger.



PILLING



Nubs are part of a fiber that has become detached from its thread and turn into a little ball when "something" is still in contact with it. This is called mechanical processing. If the area also is hot and slightly humid, it will contribute to more burling.

A rough fiber that is hard woven / knitted fluffs less than a loosely spun / woven / knitted fiber. This is because the fine fibers are often smooth and soft and thus lose the thread attached faster. Burling has nothing to do with the quality of the yarn, but the technical execution.

Nubs from a good quality is easily removed with a lintremover and pilling decreases with time.

Some people nubs more than others. It is because they make more energy / heat / electricity. That makes the fibers in the material to travel a little extra so that they are more vulnerable to fluff (this sounds a bit strange, but is completely true)

You should be aware of other peripheral things that can cause burling: strap on your bag, jackets that are not lined, jewelry and what you are sitting on or stepping in. All the things that are in contact with your garment.

An example: A customer was unhappy with a dress because the nubs. The quality dress was made of, we had good experience with over several seasons in terms of napping, so this was a bit strange. The dress had nubs on right shoulder and left hip, the rest of the dress was fine. It was the customer's bag that was of a rough material and rugged surface that had made the nubs.  A lint remover solved the problem, and the customer would use a different bag next time.


Lint remover is a good thing to have anyway :-)

Washing instructions